How to Control Pest and Diseases on Rose Plants?

Rose diseases and pests, when listed, may appear a terrifying and discouraging array of troubles for a beginner in rose-growing, but he should remember that these are only some of the plant diseases present in Australia; that the rose overseas is attacked by diseases unknown to us here; that the rose is one of the most disease-resistant of all garden plants; and that, although it is helpful to be able to recognize each disease, none is of any serious consequence except rose wilt, mildew, black spot, aphis, thrips, the die-back-symptom group, the scales, and the caterpillars. These should be controlled to the best of one’s ability, and it is important to know which sprays or dusts to apply to get best results. It would be useless to apply a spray that may be very good in controlling mildew, believing that it is “good for roses”, and that it will, therefore, kill thrips, black spot, scales, and every other disease and pest that may or may not be affecting the roses. It is equally useless to spray at wrong times, or to fail to realize that some diseases can be avoided by prophylactic spraying, whereas no curative measures for them are of any value. Many rose-growers waste time, energy, and money on sprays, often doing more harm than good. Of course, others err in never spraying, but plants of other types in those gardens will be diseased as well as the roses.

gardening roses

With all the rose’s hardiness and adaptability to extremely diverse conditions of soils and climates some varieties do not thrive. In the case of new plants this is usually due to the grower’s lack of knowledge; in established plants it results much more commonly from over-attention than from neglect. The chief causes of failure are loose planting, insufficient water at planting time, planting too deeply, manuring at planting time, allowing roots to become dry after unpacking, soil being too acid or too alkaline, poor drainage, rose-sick soil, diseases, excessive manuring at any time, deep cultivation, excessive watering, heavy frost, sunburn, excessive shade, droughts, proximity to established big plants, unduly heavy pruning, use of artesian water, arsenic in sheep manure, and plants of poor quality or in poor condition when purchased. Most of these problems are discussed elsewhere, from the aspect of correct gardening. They .are grouped here to direct attention to the possible results of incorrect work, but unfortunately this arrangement makes some repetitions and many cross-references unavoidable. Loose planting is more fully discussed in Chapter XI. It is most common in heavy soil, where firmer pressure is needed to obliterate air pockets. If the holes are dug from heavy soil, and light loam is used round the roots when planting, the soil will be more compact, but there is apt to be a type of pit in which water will stagnate, with fatal results to the rose. The neighboring soil should have some light soil mixed in with it as well.

Roses and rose gardens need never be an extravagance, or be regarded as a luxury to be indulged in only by the wealthy members of a community. Actually, it seems that these people enjoy their roses in almost inverse ratio to the amount of money they lavish on them, and the results seldom persuade others to plant large areas under roses. Any garden can be almost a reflection of its owner. A garden of trees can be restful, peaceful, and almost lazy, but still very beautiful. A garden of annuals demands a great deal of minute attention, frequent watering, and exactitude in tidiness. Most of us find it imperative to consider some degree of economy in upkeep, design, and construction. A garden must be an integral part of a home. Any worry about expense and excessive work will spoil gardening as a hobby or as a source of satisfying enjoyment. The man who owns a garden and never works in it is missing one of the greatest things in life. The more he works among his plants the more he will understand and cherish them. He can spend relatively little money, and get great returns. This is true of rose gardens even more than of other kinds. There are many gardens where the cost of the rose plants has been a small item compared with that of pergolas, arches, rest huts, stone paving, and statuary, most of which are not only quite unnecessary, but often detract from the beauty of the garden. Fortunate is the man whose daily task is from 9 a.m. till 5 p.m. five days a week, for he can be in his garden at the best times of the day and all through the week-end, if he so chooses. He knows every individual plant and its behavior; he gets to know his roses as changing, living creatures. It is a knowledge that cannot be gained in any other way. He enjoys every bloom, the revitalizing of his plants by the removal of old wood, the stimulating of new growth by removal of flowers and by watering and manuring, the tidying of his climbers, the improvement of his soil, and even the preparing of his compost. It is all enjoyment to him, and for that reason he must never plant so many roses that they become a burden to him. There is always the temptation to add a few more each winter, but no man who attends a daily calling can care for more than four or five hundred plants, and very few can manage more than half that number. Excessive zeal can lead to an excessive number of plants, and then to excessive work, with final loss of interest.

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How to Get Rid of Fleas in Your Home

Fleas can infest a home quickly and make life miserable for you and your pets. They often carry disease and were even responsible for the spread of the “Black Plague” in Europe. The public health risks posed by these critters makes them a dangerous pest. They breed very quickly and can easily infest a home by hitching a ride on the family pet. Flea “bombs” and other chemical devices tend to be quite toxic and unsafe for human or animal exposure. There are many alternatives, which when used in conjunction with other methods, will eliminate any flea infestation.

Recommended Reading : Diatomaceous Earth for Flea Treatment

Get Rid of Fleas

Recommended Flea treatments:

The Flea Trap

This trap will effectively control even the worst flea infestations in homes. The Flea Trap is a simple permanent appliance that uses heat and light to attract fleas from up to 25 feet away. Fleas attracted to the light and heat will fall through the grid and stick to the replaceable capture pad. This particular model traps 4 to 6 times the number of fleas of other similar models.

Black Box Jr. Pest Repeller

The Black Box Jr. is one of our most powerful and versatile pest repelling units. The complex circuitry allows it to be programmed for use against a variety of pests. Simply set the unit in an infested area, attach the included AC adapter and the select the setting based on the targeted pest. This is a heavy duty unit designed for large rooms or areas. For best results, use one unit per room because walls, drapes and furniture can diminish the signal. The unit emits audible sonic and ultrasonic frequencies. This unit requires no maintenance or refills.

Please keep in mind that ultrasonic pest repellers take time to work, there are no instantly effective sonic or ultrasonic repellers on the market, pests may take time to be driven away from established food sources. For maximum effectiveness, we advise using many different means of pest control as part of an effective and safe Integrated pest management system.

Orange Guard

Orange Guard allows for safer pest control. This unique product works effectively on Argentine ants, fleas, German cockroaches, palmettos, silverfish, chiggers and Red Imported Fire ants, to name just a few. Most insecticides are essentially neurotoxins, chemicals which cause damage to the insect nervous system. This property may effect humans and pets; many insecticides mimic or block natural estrogen and testosterone hormones, causing untold developmental complications. These compounds are so pervasive that they are often found in the amniotic fluid of expectant mothers.

Boric Acid Roach Killer

Boric Acid has been a well kept exterminator’s secret for years! Pests crawl all over the powder, later ingest it and then die. Boric Acid is safe enough to use in the home and even in carpets. This powder works effectively and may take up to three weeks to kill off the entire insect colony. The special formulation prevents the powder from caking or hardening.

Tips for Safer Cockroach Control

cockroach control

Cockroaches are hearty pests, they have existed in different forms for millions of years and have become adept at the art of survival.  They have continually adapted to most chemical treatments, leaving dangerous chemical residue that harms humans and pets.  Cockroaches are anything but clean, they routinely dig through garbage and any other waste imaginable.  Then they crawl all over countertops, foodstuffs and kitchenware.  Roach droppings and bodies have been reported to act as asthmatic triggers that increase the intensity and frequency of asthma problems.

cockroach controlBaits tend to work well with these species because they cannibalize the poisoned bodies of their fallen comrades.  An often overlooked solution is to sprinkle infested areas with diatomaceous earth (DE).  DE is often used in pool filters, it consists of fossilized marine remains that forms a fine talc-like powder.  This substance is completely inert and will not pose any threat to people or animals.  DE has an almost microscopic crystalline structure that will perforate and kill the soft bodied roaches.  Roaches cannot adapt to this material because it physically harms the abdomen of the roach.  As with other pests, it is important to make sure that window and door frames are sealed and all structural cracks are filled in.  Make sure to eliminate damp areas, leaks and spills as well as food sources to limit their access to the necessary food and water.  In order to use a more specific roach treatment, it is recommended that you place sticky traps in order to allow for more a positive identification of species.

Boric Acid Roach Killer

Boric Acid has been a well kept exterminator’s secret for years! Pests crawl all over the powder, later ingest it and then die. Boric Acid is safe enough to use in the home and even in carpets. I remember once my mother using boric acid for ants, and figured it was worth a shot for roaches. This powder works effectively and may take up to three weeks to kill off the entire insect colony. The special formulation prevents the powder from caking or hardening.

Diatomaceous Earth (DE)

Insecto is one of the safest non-chemical insecticides on the market. It uses a custom formulation of Diatomaceous Earth (DE) to physically injure insect bodies. DE punctures pest exoskeletons and quickly absorbs their bodily fluids, causing death by dehydration. DE is absolutely safe to use around people and pets because it doesn’t attack pests using neurotoxins like many other pesticides. Farmers and agricultural specialists even mix small amounts of DE in with animal feed to keep it pest free.

Guardian Beneficial Nematodes

nematode pest controlNematodes are microscopic worms that are introduced into soil intentionally. They are considered beneficial insects because they devour flea eggs and larvae, making them an important tool in biological pest control. The nematodes also help to control 250 other pests that begin their lives in soil, i.e. chinch bugs, sod webworms. They are non-toxic, non-harmless and absolutely safe(unless you happen to be pest larvae). They reproduce readily, so one application is generally sufficient to eliminate a larval population. We recommend using 1-2 million per acre of land.

Features and Benefits:

  1. Nematodes pose no danger to humans or animals and are completely non-hazardous.
  2. Nematodes eat larvae, thus preventing the emergence of new adults.
  3. Biological methods are a vital part of any integrated pest management plan.
  4. We recommend using nematodes in conjunction with other pest control methods to effectively and safely manage pest problems.